Saturday, December 13, 2008

I know, I know, I know...its been ages since my last post, but finally, I have the Thanksgiving pictures ready. Thanksgiving ingredients were fairly hard to come by here and so buying a turkey was alittle like making a drug deal. I saw an add on thebeijinger.com website asking if a group of people wanted to get together to make a mass turkey buy. On the appointed day and time, I met my contact in front of the People Daily Paper building and pick up my 6kg turkey. the price was 18 RMB per jin (roughly a pound, but more accuratedly half a kilo), so it ended up costing about 240 RMB, or 35$ dollars, for a 12 lb turkey. This was a pretty good deal, as it was a Chinese turkey, rather than an imported one, which would have cost about 40 RMB per jin. I ended up marinading the turkey for a day in white wine, apples, carrots, onions, garlic, fresh thyme and rosemary.

And here she is...it was definately packaged Chinese style. First, the guts were not in a nice sanitary paper bag...they were still attached to the cavity of the bird!!! I had to wrench the heart and kidneys free--pretty gross. Also, while the neck was detached from the bird, the nec skin had not been trimmed, so my turkey had a big turtleneck. the breast was not as plump its american counterparts (which could be a general statement about the differences in China and the US).I couldn't find bread crumbs for stuffing, so I made my own. I took a couple french bagettes and tossed them with garlic, thyme and rosemary and olive oil. Usually I would make stuffing with sausage, pecans, wild rice, celery, green onion and carrot, but since we had a vegetarian, a buddist and someone allergic to nuts, I had to skip the first two.

I also make a plate of grilled balsamic veggies for an appetizer...it included red onions, zuchini, squash, green peppers, mushrooms and a couple of cloves of roasted garlic. I topped it with a string of tomatoes still on the vine....it was really delicious.
We invited a dozen people to join us...evenone had to bring a bottle of wine/booze and a dish to pass. We started out with bloody marys and mimosas and then quickly moved on to mojitos (made by a venezuelan!!).

One of our guests, Maggie, brought mashed potatoes. She originally was just going to bring a recipe-derived mashed potatoes with olives, but as one of my american classmates told her, "Don't bring that, it will ruin everything", she opted for half olive potates and half wasabi potatoes. With alittle help from Oscar, she served some great mashers.The turkey was the star, of course. I ended roasting it upside down for a couple hours to increase the juiciness of the white meat. Most Chinese don't like turkey because its so dry, so I really worked hard on getting the meat perfectly juicy.

As you can see below, the 12 lb turkey was a close fit for my oven.The upside down roasting doesn't ensure perfectly browned skin, but Cliff and I aren't skin people, so it doesn't both us.

After removing the bird from the oven, I let it rest, breast side down, for about 30 min. Then, it was carving time!!!The food looked great, we hard turkey, stuffing, brie cheese, two salads, mashed potates, sweet potatoes and mashed spiced sweet potatoes, and a parmesean rice dish.


We all enjoyed our dinner...I got some great compliments on the dishes.


We also has dessert. I made pumpkin-mascarepone cheese mousse, topped with spiced walnuts.
Our German friend, Verena, brought a homemade German apple cake. She served it with vanilla ice cream--it was sssssssoooooo good.

Since it was the start of the season and almost everybody knew we shipped a xmas tree, we had several requests to decorate during the party. Cliff and maggie spent dessert time putting up the tree.

and, what party would be complete without alittle rock band?
We had a great first Thanksgiving in Beijing with our new Beijing family. The food was great, the drinks flowed freely, but of course, it was the company that made it a night to remember.

Wednesday, December 3, 2008

As if I wasn't already freaked out...

Just a quick post today...I came across this article published by the Council on Foreign Relations (pub Oct) on Food Safety in China. Melamine be damned...I just want the food they put steroids in...
Introduction

From pet food and toothpaste to dialysis drugs and milk products, the Chinese government finds itself under growing scrutiny both domestically and internationally for how it regulates food and other consumer products. Following scandals involving both pet food and dairy products, some accused Chinese producers of deliberately adding the chemical melamine to products to thwart quality testing methods aimed at detecting protein levels in foods. The Chinese government defends its food safety record but has also made moves to improve regulatory oversight. On preventing tainted food from entering international markets, some experts note that Japan and Hong Kong do more than the United States does to inspect food imports from China. Other experts say multinational firms involved in exporting products from China must do more to ensure that the products they are moving are safe.

Volume of Chinese Trade

A report from the Chinese government says food exports during 2006 grew by almost 13 percent over the previous year. Between 2002 and 2007, U.S. foodstuff imports from China grew more than 140 percent, and the country is now a major supplier of seafood, canned vegetables, fruit juices, honey, and a variety of processed foods to the United States. The report says 99 percent of all exported foodstuffs have been accepted by import monitors. The acceptance rate by European Union monitors in 2006 and the first half of 2007 was more than 99.8 percent-higher than the U.S. acceptance rate of 99.1 percent. Japan-which the Chinese government says inspected a greater percentage of food imports from China than from any other country-gave Chinese foodstuffs a higher pass rate (99.4 percent) than it gave imports from either the European Union or the United States. Chinese fruits and vegetables, which account for about 12 percent of global trade, have had a lower rate of acceptance for meeting pesticide residue standards, at about 93 percent, the government said. China has also emerged as the world's top supplier of active pharmaceutical ingredients used in the manufacture of brand-name and generic drugs globally.

Though China is developing rapidly, its food production system remains small and disaggregated. The country's agriculture system alone is composed of hundreds of millions of farms, many of which are extremely small. The country also bans far fewer pesticides than the United States and the European Union. Of the nearly one million food processing factories, 70 percent are food workshops with fewer than ten employees. The government says these small workshops pose a particular challenge to ensuring food quality and safety. China has at least ten agencies (China Daily) to regulate food and drug safety (the United States has twelve), but it also has myriad food safety laws (China Law Insight).

Beijing's Response to Bad Food and Drugs

A 2004 decision by China's State Council to strengthen food safety came after that year's baby formula scandal. The decision did increase penalties, but critics say the maximum fine of roughly $6,400 for an individual product or company did little to deter bad actors. In April 2008, the country's legislature unveiled a draft food safety law that includes new fines up to twenty times (Bloomberg) the profits of a company in non-criminal cases and the possibility of life in prison in criminal cases. The law was still being debated when reports began to surface in 2008 about children developing kidney problems from bad milk formula. The government has executed a number of people in criminal cases involving deadly food and drugs, perhaps the most notable of which was the 2007 execution of the country's top food and drug regulator (IHT). The government also has engaged in massive crackdowns (NYT), shutting down substandard or illegal shops, firing officials, and opening criminal investigations.

The 2008 milk incident prompted the Chinese government to issue new regulations about permissible levels of melamine in milk, pledge to hire more inspectors, and end inspection exemptions for companies. At the end of 2007 the government also issued new regulations to require any company manufacturing drug components to register with state drug regulators. Before the rule, chemical companies making components but not actual drugs were not considered part of the food and drug regulatory scheme. The rule came as part of a larger agreement between the United States and China on food safety signed at the end of 2007.

Policing the System

Though China's regulatory scheme is similar to that of United States where food agencies primarily set standards while enforcement is left to local and regional authorities, some local Chinese officials have economic incentives to look the other way. Writing on the country's environmental problems, CFR Senior Fellow Elizabeth C. Economy says local officials are "often in cahoots with factory managers," making them less willing to enforce centrally mandated standards. Carl Minzner, a specialist in Chinese law at St. Louis' Washington University Law School, says the country's top-down system poses problems throughout the regulatory regime. "Monitoring at the local level is very difficult," he says. Meanwhile, columnist Liu Wei writes in the Chinese government-run newspaper China Daily that some Chinese government officials attribute the food incidents to the overlapping functions of different government departments, which leaves people confused about which department they should complain to.

In the United States, food safety is also enforced through a variety of other means, including a punitive torts system, independent media, and vigorous civil society organizations. These institutions in China are not nearly as powerful, though some analysts see signs of change. Steven M. Dickinson, a partner in the international law firm Harris & Moure who has spent the last five years in China, says local media played an unprecedented role informing the public during the 2008 milk scandal. Some critics, however, say the milk incident could have been dealt with months earlier and blame the country's focus on the Olympics for stifling early warnings (YaleGlobal).

Melamine was found in milk for twenty-two different producers in China, nine of which were exempt from mandatory government testing through a program aimed at rewarding companies that had gotten high marks on quality inspections in the past. Testing may not have mattered since the government rated dairy producers among the safest in the country based on quality inspection tests. In 2007, after the pet food incident, Chinese officials told staff investigators for the U.S. House Energy Commerce subcommittee that melamine testing had not been conducted until May of that year but declared that it was not widely used in animal feeds and that the incident had been blown out of proportion (PDF).

Experts say quality testing is insufficient if the tests are not properly targeted. David G. Strunce of Scientific Protein Laboratories, based in the United States, which has a joint venture in China to make drug components, told a U.S. congressional committee in April 2008 that the substance found to be adulterating the drug component his company produced had been introduced upstream in the supply chain and that current manufacturing standards and testing were incapable of detecting or removing it (PDF).

Market Forces

Another big component of U.S. food safety is self-regulation by companies, which are mindful of the damage to business and public relations caused by a food safety incident. In most cases in the United States, food recalls are voluntary. In China, however, the stakes are different. Sanlu Group, at the heart of the 2008 milk scandal, refused to recall baby formula for at least a month after discovering problems. A 2008 report published in the Journal of Supply Chain Management on global food supply chains finds that despite rapid development it is hard to make money in China and that a common belief in China is that the "ultracompetitive business environment" means companies cannot survive without breaking the rules. Companies that do use good business practices are seen to be at an economic disadvantage, the report said. One way to improve safety would be for suppliers to adopt comprehensive supply-chain-management practices that allow tracking of food from production to the table in a transparent way.

The Chinese Premier Wen Jiabao said at a September 2008 World Economic Forum meeting that the country needs to work on improving business ethics as it develops. "In our modernization process, there is still room for improvement in production oversight and supervision," said Wen. "This issue has not been wholly resolved. But we will take speedy action to revitalize China's whole food industry."

In the case of the 2008 milk scandal, the government imposed price controls on foods after massive price inflation began threatening the country's stability but did not impose controls on some things needed to produce food, such as fertilizer and seeds. Producers therefore had to pay market prices in production but could not get a return on their investments. Throughout the supply chain there were incentives to water down milk and replace it with melamine, says Dickinson, the legal expert.

Some families have moved to sue the companies involved, though China's tort system only allows for direct economic damages. Such amounts are likely to be far smaller than the massive punitive damages allowed in the United States that often serve as a deterrent to companies. Market forces can still play a role in China. People's unwillingness to buy milk products over fear of which producers to trust has been a huge blow to the country's dairy industry.

Dangers in Trade

In high-profile cases, countries often impose temporary bans on imports discovered to be unsafe. Some bans are considered trade barriers that can lead to trade disputes. In 2008, more than two dozen countries banned milk and food imports from China after tainted milk products were found. Some of these products were distributed by well known Western companies, including Cadbury, Mars, and Nestle. Liability issues for international companies using Chinese supplies are a growing concern. Jerome A. Cohen, a CFR adjunct senior fellow, writes that the liability for New Zealand firm Fonterra, a major investor in the Sanlu Group, is unclear. Cohen says the case offers a lesson for other foreign investors. Experts are also quick to point out that China's food problems mirror those that other nations have experienced, including the United States. They add, however, that China's massive growth in trade and the realities of globalization makes the country an exceptional case, increasing the urgency for Beijing to tackle its food problems.

In the United States, consumer groups have called for greater scrutiny of food imports by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). The FDA currently inspects only a small portion (PDF) of food and drug imports. An FDA official told Congress in 2008 that the agency was moving to improve safety measures (PDF), particularly against terrorist threats from those who might purposely adulterate food. The official added that the FDA is working with the Chinese government to increase inspections.

Of the inspections the FDA does conduct, food from India is more likely to fail than food from China. Illnesses from food in the United States more often originate domestically, U.S. congressional investigators said. The United States allows no imports of meat and poultry from China because U.S. law requires importers to meet the same standards as U.S. producers. The U.S. House Energy and Commerce subcommittee investigative report concluded that such a standard could not be imposed on all imported food but notes the import process can be made safer. The report also points to Japan and Hong Kong's import models as possible alternatives to the U.S. system. Japan, for example, inspects up to 16 percent of food from China and allows in food that originates only from a small number of certified farms and plants. But more stringent inspection regimes are not fool-proof. In 2008, hundreds of people in Japan fell ill from Chinese-made dumplings laced with pesticides, and Hong Kong found melamine-laden in milk products imported from the Chinese mainland.

Sunday, November 30, 2008

Backwards post

Ok, so I'm still processing the photos from our thanksgiving celebration (which turned our great, by the way), so those will be online soon. My reason for a quick post is that tonight, Cliff and I attended a North Korean Film festival. Unsurprisingly, it was short yet interesting. We watch two movies: The Game of Our Lives and The Schoolgirls Diary. The first movie was released in 2002 is about the famed 1966 World Cup team from the North that advanced to the quarterfinals. The feature includes interviews with surviving members of the team, English fans and soccer pundits who saw the North Koreans upset Italy, 1-0, and go up 3-0 against Portgual before Eusebio eventually rallied the Portugeuse. The movie was quite good and gave some great non-soccer insights into North Korea.

There are only 8 surviving members of that storied team...
The second movie is really the reason we all showed up...The Schoolgirls Diary is one of only two films produced in 2006 in North Korea...It debuted at the 2006 Pyongyang Film Festival (which I'm sure was an industry standard bearer) and has been released in at the end of last year. It is the first film from North Korea to be picked up for international distribution in several decades. If you want to see a preview, click on the link below:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDMr-y1w7sQ

The film was alittle 'white bread' and nothing really exciting, but given the cultural notes, I'd recommend it. It the most obvious commentary is based on what is not said in the film. The main character lives in a run down, chimney heated house that has faulty electric wiring. She lives with a mother (who spends every free hour devoted to translating articles for her absentee husband), a dedicated and kind grandmother, a soccer-star sister. All the ladies lives center around missing the husband/father, who has gone off to some scientific job and carries the hopes and pride of the entire family with him. He seems perpetually average at his job and therefore has left his family's desire for betterment and esteem, unfulfilled. But, the family's sacrifices are for the good of the great leader and the progress of the country, which is reward enough. A good commentary on the movie can be seen on the following site:

http://www.starpulse.com/news/index.php/2008/01/09/the_schoolgirl_s_diary_provides_a_glimps

Overall, I really enjoyed the night. Its not every evening that I can enjoy some quality communist programming--oh, wait a second...nevermind, that's every night here. Regardless, the films have a pleasant, contrived quality about them that makes it more than just pure entertainment. Its all the subtleties and mindless adoration for the state that makes me want to cry and puke in my mouth all at the same time.

Saturday, November 22, 2008

Watch out world...

Cliff and I count ourselves lucky to be out of the country right now, given the economic downturn. However, it becomes more apparent that we, in China, will have our own problems to deal with. We continue to hear more and more of riots in the western factory towns and how general unrest is rising. Also, as the dollar falls, Chinese goods become relatively more expensive for consumers, which is bad for China's export driven economy. Car sales are down, which according to a local magazine "Business in China", is a result of lower returns on the Chinese stock market. It seems as if double digit economic growth will be a thing of the past. It will be interesting to see how the government is going to handle keeping the society in (harmonious) balance. Below is a recent article from Newsweek which does a great job summarizing all of the issues facing the government and what the consequences of mishandling this economic crisis could mean for the future of the Communist party. Enjoy!!

Why Beijing Is In A Risky Place

As the factory to the world, China may be the nation most vulnerable to collapsing global demand.

George Wehrfritz
NEWSWEEK
From the magazine issue dated Dec 1, 2008

Workers are losing factory jobs at the fastest rate in decades. Automakers—having failed to anticipate today's sales slump—are lobbying politicians for bailouts. The stock market is a crash heap, home prices are down by 35 percent or more in many cities and toxic assets have begun to weigh heavily on banks. America in 2008? Try China, where the global economic downturn now looks certain to end the country's 30-year growth boom, posing the greatest leadership challenge to Beijing since pro-democracy demonstrations threatened one-party communist rule back in 1989.

That's not the conventional take on China—yet. But with most industrialized countries now in recession and countries the world over hoping against hope that the planet's most buoyant major economy might somehow dampen the global downturn, it's a forecast that increasingly rings true. The reasoning goes something like this: China, despite its deep pool of savings and $2 trillion in foreign reserves, is unprotected from the fall in global demand that began in earnest in mid-2008. Notwithstanding all the hoopla about the rise of China's billion consumers, the body blow that's now landing in the industrial heartland will debunk the notion that China has already begun transitioning toward a new growth model based less on exports and investment and more on household consumption. "We would love to believe it too, but it just ain't so," wrote Standard Chartered bank's highly respected China economist, Stephen Green, last month. He says expecting Chinese spending to save the world from recession is "a pipe dream."

With China at the vanguard, Asia as a whole stands dangerously exposed to external shock. Since the late 1990s, household consumption as a share of China's GDP has fallen from roughly half to 35 percent. On the flip side, the share of Asia ex-Japan's output devoted to exports is now more than 45 percent, or roughly 10 points higher than it was on the eve of the 1997–98 Asian financial crisis. When juxtaposed with America's debt-driven gluttony, Asia's puny appetite for the goods it produces reflects a global economy that's staggeringly out of whack. "We are where we are because of massive imbalances that policymakers and politicians have allowed to build up over the last decade," argues Stephen Roach, chairman of Morgan Stanley Asia. "Those imbalances were never sustainable, but the longer they went on the more they seduced people. And now we're paying the ultimate price for that seduction."

The tab, in fact, has yet to be tallied, but don't be surprised if Beijing gets stuck with the biggest portion of the bill for the simple reason that China's rebalancing act is actually much tougher than America's. For U.S. households, today's crisis means saving more and consuming less (recent consumption data suggests that is happening quite rapidly). Yet in China, where total household consumption is just 5 percent of America's by value, the challenge is to sustain an economy that's largely investment- and export-driven, which means finding ways to perpetuate industrial overproduction. Michael Pettis, a professor of finance at Peking University, says America found itself in the same bind back in 1929. "The U.S. in the 1920s ran a huge trade surplus and had the largest reserves in history to that point," he says. "So was the U.S. immune to the global crisis? No. It was the country that suffered the most. In that sense it is exactly like China today."

Beijing realizes the growth trap it's in. Why else would it unveil on Nov. 10 a $590 billion stimulus plan—a package nearly as large as Washington's $700 billion financial bailout—just days after it announced that China's economy expanded by 9 percent in the July–September quarter? The consensus view is that China's economy has slowed markedly since then. Year-on-year growth estimates for 2009 are mostly in the 7s, with the latest forecasts adding the scary caveat, "or less." This month the Royal Bank of Scotland said 5 percent growth in China next year couldn't be ruled out. China's economy, which grew by 11.9 percent last year, hasn't dipped below 6 percent annually since 1990.

Beijing's stimulus plan has won plaudits internationally not least because it indicates that Chinese leaders won't stand idly by as the crisis deepens. But just as in Washington at the beginning of the Great Depression, policy miscues could cost China dearly—especially if they undermine the global trading regime that China's economy relies on more heavily than any other major economy in the world. In the early 1930s, America's self-defeating mistake was to cut off world trade, particularly in the Smoot-Hawley Tariff Act, at a time when it was the leading exporter in a world burdened by massive industrial overproduction. Today, China is the lead exporter, the world again faces massive overproduction, and the mistake Beijing must avoid is moving too hard to sell more manufactured exports at the risk of flooding an already weak market, and triggering a protectionist backlash. That will only push the global market toward deflation—the downward spiral of falling prices leading to falling demand, as stressed consumers wait for even better bargains.

The doubts about China's stimulus plan arise in part because it's all broad strokes with no fine print. Conceptually, however, it seems intended to split the difference between promoting consumption at home, and export sales. It includes commitments to fund rural infrastructure, boost social spending on health and education, and mount an "economic housing" scheme for migrant workers in major cities—all of which, if implemented, would raise household spending over time. But it also contains perks for heavy industry, value-added tax cuts for the export sector and lending provisions that will channel bank funding to state enterprises engaged in road and rail construction and away from private companies. "The two focuses are definitely exports and infrastructure. That's what we're getting from everything we're picking up," says Green. "And that the health and education spending, although it has been listed as one of the eight priorities, is not going to be [well] supported." Economists estimate that only a quarter of the $590 billion is new money as opposed to previously announced spending, future tax cuts and unfunded mandates passed down to local governments. There's reason to expect that much of the promised social spending—and the consumer empowerment it represents—may not materialize. One warning signal is that Beijing has entrusted much of the safety net stuff to the provinces, which historically have put a low priority on building schools, unless the order to do so comes with earmarked funding from Beijing. One new concern: local tax revenues are shrinking due to the economic downturn. Roach says investment in the social safety net would "reduce the precautionary saving that is inhibiting broad-based consumption growth across the nations [of Asia]," though he adds: "China has from time to time flirted with that, but they really have dragged their feet."

To understand the linkage between social services and household consumption, visit a Chinese hospital. At check-in, patients are required to deposit money up-front, and when that funding runs dry they're tossed out onto the street, healthy or not. According to the World Health Organization, China spends less than 1 percent of its GDP on health care, which ranks it 156th out of 196 nations the U.N. agency tracks. Likewise, poor kids can't attend school without paying fees, and most migrants are uninsured against job-site accidents at any price. Families cope by saving an estimated 25 percent of their disposable income, just in case.

That isn't a social contract conducive to the "harmonious society" President Hu Jintao has advocated since 2006, or so concludes a new report co-produced by the United Nations Development Program and the China Institute for Reform and Development. It calls on China to overhaul its social-welfare system to provide universal basic health care, education, unemployment and retirement benefits for the country's 1.3 billion people. It stresses the need to vest forgotten segments of society including farmers, migrant workers and the poor. And it claims that such expenditures—which it estimates would cost $55 billion a year—actually offer a bigger bang for the buck than would the construction of new roads, railways and bridges.

The risk today (and it's one that's already materializing in a mounting exodus from shuttered factories in Guangdong province) is that these workers could, like the boxcar-hopping hobos of America's Depression era, become the flotsam and jetsam of the economic bust. Almost since China's reforms began three decades ago, Beijing insisted that sustaining economic growth rates above 8 percent was paramount to employing the millions of workers pouring in from inland villages. The further growth drops below that level, the higher the percentage of an estimated 15 million workers entering the labor force each year lands in the ranks of the unemployed. Yet even as policymakers stoked fast growth with every means at their disposal, little was done to transform these workers into foot soldiers of a different sort: new consumers with sufficient social protections to save less and spend more.

The prescription for change has been obvious since the late 1990s. It includes balanced growth between booming east and lagging west; efforts to narrow the yawning income gap between China's superrich and everyone else; and policies that channel the massive earnings logged by the state-owned conglomerates that dominate China Inc. back into government coffers to fund social spending. Yet campaigns with names like Go West meant to spur investment in the hinterland never amounted to more than propaganda exercises, and a long-mulled plan for the government to charge state companies dividend on their huge profits remains a small-scale experiment. In October, Standard Chartered noted a "gulf between aspirations and actual policies" illustrated by Beijing's long-standing bias toward investment and exports, and support for "state-protected oligopolies." Pettis argues that Beijing's persistent mercantilism has prepared it for the wrong crisis—specifically, an external debt shock akin to the one that ravaged Asia in 1997-98, against which China's huge savings and foreign reserve pools would make it "superbly protected." Yet as with America in 1929, China is the nation most exposed in the world to a collapse in global demand today.

As such, Beijing finds itself in a fix as 2008 winds to an ignominious close. Export promotion offers a viable short-term means of keeping the factories of China running—yet grabbing more market share amid a global downturn is the surest way to incite protectionism. During the recent gathering of G20 leaders in Washington, much public emphasis was placed on shoring up the global financial architecture and defending free trade. Yet former New Zealand prime minister Mike Moore, who headed the World Trade Organization from 1999 to 2002, believes the backroom talks focused on the imperative that Asia not try to export its way out of today's crisis. It was "the elephant in the room; how China, and to a lesser extent India and the Southeast Asians, must become consuming countries," he says. "It's overwhelmingly in [their] interest to become a lot less reliant on exports, and it also does right by the people they represent. Not to do it could trigger something that's very, very unpleasant." Global trade slumped 70 percent in the 1930s, and any return to the virulent economic nationalism of that era "would turn crisis into catastrophe," warns Moore.

That presents Beijing with a leadership challenge very different from the one it confronted with tanks and soldiers in 1989. Today, it must work to maintain enough harmony in the global trade arena so as not to lose access to vital overseas markets, while telling the Chinese people that fast growth isn't their birthright. In essence, Beijing must offer a new social contract in which consumption bolstered with a social safety net replaces the export-driven growth engine that has powered China's economy for 30 years. FDR did that in America in the 1930s, but it took a decade. Might China's leaders fare any better? In the late 1990s, then Premier Zhu Rongji refrained from devaluing China's currency when many of its neighbors did so; the decision lost China some export momentum but gained its leadership a reputation for responsible global action. Today's leaders have maintained that reputation, but given the enormity of the economic challenges at hand, the only safe bet is that their helmsmanship will be tested to the extreme in 2009. Especially if the pessimists are correct and China's economy grinds to a halt.

Friday, November 14, 2008

Beijing nights

Cliff and I have been busy lately...We've taken an Economics test and moved on to Business Law and ethics and Financial Accounting. I am not really looking forward to the test on the latter. The ethic class is very interesting, especially since the melamine issue is still a very hot topic here. From my previous post, you can see that I am also concerned about food safety, but we can't guarantee the safety of everything we eat, and if someone is willing to poisons babies to make an extra buck, why wouldn't some they lie and say that something was imported when it really wasn't. I hope that our two plus years here aren't too damaging to us...thank good we don't have kids.

We also have been doing a decent amount of playing. I am starting to get more educated about the city and as our circle of friends grows, so does out local connections. For instance, we were invited out to the birthday party of the manager of one of the hottest restaurants in town. They shut down the place for the night and served cocktails all night. We ate passed appetizers and drank alot of time. Below is a picture of our company for the night...one venezuelan, one taiwanese and a spaniard. I can say that our crowd is becoming increasingly international.

Maggie and Elena have become frequent companions on the weekends and I have really enjoyed getting to know them. Here is us at Mosto, the restaurant hosting the birthday party. Its alittle expensive, so I don't get there as much as I'd like, but the whole evening was quite good.


There was a DJ spinning great tunes, white and red wine and great finger foods. I circulated like a rock star and got to meet great people. We danced until the wee hours and has a great time. As you can see from below, some of us enjoyed ourselves more than others (rest assured, I took advantage of the situation too--things haven't changed that much!)We've also been hitting the clubs lately with a group of friends. We have a solid group of girls in our group, so its been fun getting out with them. The wife of my class mate and maggie are great company, we they would prefer to speak chinese, and I'm more than happy to oblige, especially earlier in the evening. Below is the happiest man in Beijing.


ahhh...YMCA is happiness in any language...

and below is the obligatory cab ride home....sometimes not having a car is OK.
Cliff attended a class dinner last week and had the unique privilege of learning the zither from one of the most talented musicians in the country. One of our classmates owns a local restaurant, which is very traditional and it regularly hosts traditional musicians. Cliff was chosen to get up on stage and learn a couple of notes.

cliff has also been making friends with our classmates and hitting the night life with them. Below is our friend, Oscar, with everybody's friend Po, of Kungfu panda fame. I'm not sure which bar this panda was hanging out in, but he looks friendly emough.
We've also gotten a chance to check out the music scene here...Kanye West came on the 1st of Nov to the Workers Gymnasium, which is less than 6 blocks from our house.


This concert was by far the most bizarre event I had ever been too. As you can see above, the floor seats were rows of chair and were so, so far away from the stage. There didn't seem to be any connection between kanye and the audience. Also, all of the speakers were canted straight back, so unless you were sitting center stage, the sound quality was very poor. I was even able to have a conversation during the concert. the opening act (which was all of 10 minutes) was a Taiwanese rap group that repeatedly said "I'm so cool" for their first song did some hip hop dancing for the rest of the show. It was clearly an imitation of American music, and not a great one at that. The people around us loved them, but we were all alittle appalled.

When Kanye came on, no one in the stadium stood up or danced. Everybody stayed in their seats. Hardly any of the chinese looked excited...none of them put their hands up, very few clapped their hands or bobbed their heads or anything. It was like they all knew this would be a hot concert and that they should buy tickets, so they did, but didn't know any of the songs, or really the artist. The worst were the people on the floor...most stayed in their chairs, in they're business suits with their legs crossed, listening to the music. The few people that tried to get up and dance were put back in their seats by security. Finally, about an hour into the concert, Kanye started playing some of his more popular and up beat radio hits and people slowly started to dance. Interestingly enough, as soon as the show was 'over' (before the encore), the crowd clapped and became silent, like they didn't understand how to cheer for an encore. It was like someone had just flipped a switch.
Overall, the show was run poorly...that combined with the bizarre/under-musically-educated audience made for a night to remember...although I can't decide for good or for bad.

I know we've finally forged some friendships, as we were invited over to our Chinese classmate's house for dinner...His (Taiwanese) wife, stacy, cooked a great dinner...pasta, swedish meatballs with mashed potatoes and gravy and tiramisu....mmmmmm. Joining us was some other Chinese, Taiwanese, Korean, Thai and German friends.

Their daughter, Alyssa, became very attached to cliff...he read to her and helped he put stickers on some of her books. John and Stacy said that she really likes men, so Cliff was happy enough.
Never fear, this isn't driving us to have kids...we just like other peoples children. After a great dinner and a great time with friends, we happier returned their kids and cabbed it home. We really are having a great time in Beijing, making new friends and discovering the city....that's all for now!

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

Melamine

Well kids, I can now say that I'm adequately freaked out by the melamine scandal. Cliff and I have been drinking milk from China off and on since we got here. When it was uncovered that the tainted milk was discovered before the Olympics, it makes me realize that we've probably injested enough melamine to poop a tupperware container. ugh. Now, the scare has spread to eggs, which in turn, begs the question of the general safety of the meat here. I read an article about how melamine is the dirty little secret of the Chinese agricultural industry. We don't really have a choice here, but I would highly encourage all of your to stay away from Chinese food products of all kinds. I also talked to one of our fellow Olmsted Scholars who told me that his three year old son has dropped from the 50th percentile in size for his age group to the 5th percentile. They changed over to imported milk and homemade bread from imported flour over a month ago. In case you wanted to freak yourself out, here is a couple of articles to read up on...

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2008/11/03/AR2008110303486.html?hpid=topnews

Chinese Regulators Destroy Tons of Tainted Animal Feed
China’s Tainted-Food Inquiry Widens Amid Worries Over Animal Feed
More Lawsuits Filed Over Tainted Milk in China

Monday, November 3, 2008

halloween

Cliff and I hosted a Halloween party at our place for all of our classmates this weekend and it turned out great. It was everything a party should be...loud music, lots of drinking, cops came, neighbors complained, we went our afterwards and stumbled home. It was glorious. Actually, the party planning was alittle arduous...we learned alot about Chinese culture in a very short time. First, many of our classmates were very hesitant to come to our place. You see, when you socialize in China, you share a meal. If you are making new friends, you could spent nearly a quarter of your day eating off of a lazy susan. Of course, the very American way to make friends is to have them over for drinks and go out afterwards. Then, there was also the problem that many of our classmates were fearful of the type of place that two MBA students could possibly rent in Beijing. Needless to say, Cliff and I exceeded their expectations in that department. Lastly, since a vast majority of our classmates have never been to a Halloween party, getting them to dress up and have a drink was also a stretch. We are pleased to say that it was a success. Click on the following link to see an all-American holiday at its best!!!

http://picasaweb.google.com/cliffordtorrijos

Wednesday, October 22, 2008

Thailand Part II......Krabi

Sorry for the delay, we finally processed our photos from Krabi. So, we originally planned to take a ferry from Phuket to Krabi, but after more investigation, we found out that we had to take a bus from Naiyang beach, to Phuket town, buy a ticket on a public bu s and ride to Krabi. By chance we were surfing the net while at Phuket and figured out that we could rent a car and have it take us in one direction from Phuket to Krabi for less than 30 USD. After our fun on the scooter, we decided to give it a go. About halfway was a town called Phangnga, so we stopped there for lunch.

The landscape at Phangnga was alot like Guilin. Tour books said that the rocks near Krabi were karst limestone and they sure look and felt just like southern China:

This the main street of Phangnga. It was only one street and not alot to write home about ( guess, but here am I writing home about it)

Here is the hole in the wall we ate at...it was decent. Not much to look at, but it seemed pretty popular, especially with the local muslim crowd.

Cliff ate Thai chicken.....
and I ate garlic pepper fish....mmmmmm.
We finally arrive at Krabi...or more specifically Aonang Beach. The rental car ended up being a rather funny debacle. We had made a deal to drop off our car at the parking lot of the hotel and leave the keys at the front desk. The only problem was that our hotel was only accessible by boat and the boats only ran from 8-5. We called the car place and asked if they wanted us to leave the keys at a local dive shop or something, but they kept insisting that we leave it at the front deck like we already planned. After some arguments, we just gave up and just told them that we'd stick to the original plan. of course, they called us the next day all upset that they had to take a boat...haha.
Here is us on the boat...it was fun!!!! What you don't see is the two hiking backpacks, two carryone backpacks and one kiteboard bag that was piled up on the front of the boat.
Here is our approach to Tonsai bay...there are several places to stay on the bay, but the largest is called Tonsai Bay resort, which is where we stayed. There are no cars in the part of the peninsula...it was great.
Here is one of the climbing spot on the approach to our beach.
And this is our room...it looks pretty nice. The only crappy thing was that there was only electricity from 6pm to 9am, so if you wanted to go climbing and shower before dinner, then you were out of luck. The aircon was good, when it was on, the bathroom was passable, so we were content.
Here is the outside...we resided in only the left half of this bungalow...most people staying here are climbers, so no real late partying and everyone tries to get up early to get on the better routes first.
Here is the view from the front of our place...climbing routes within 50 m...nice!!!
Here is from the first night in Krabi, with a little hermit crab. I'm not sure why I was so amazed with this hermit crab...I know they obviously are from the wild, but this is the first time I'd seen one outside of a plastic box. In the background you can see the low tide...it was pretty rocky in the shallows.
And me....enjoying a boooootiful sunset...
The first day out we started our climbing and never looked back--this place had great routes, but unfortunately, there were not alot of beginner, intermediate walls, so maybe we'll have to go back soon after we get alittle more practice. Cliff thought that the walls at Guilin were graded alittle higher, so the routes were alittle harder.

We ate here after lunch...I don't think that this place had any sort of sanitary rating.
Here is Cliff and our guide getting ready for a tough route. You actually stand on the rock in front of Cliff and lift yourself up onto the rock and start climbing. it was pretty fun!



Here was the view from the rockwall...not bad!
the next day we decided to take a break and rent a kayak for some fun. I think that perhaps Cliff has some depth perception problems, as we had to Kayak for over an hour to get to an island (not pictured) and then another a hour to get to Aonang to do alittle shopping (and eat at burger king again). It was a beatiful day though...

Here is the rock wall right beside our breakfast table. It was neat, as we were able to have breakfast and watch people climb a couple difficult multi-pitch routes.

here is my husband, a coffee drinker. Cliff really never did coffee before this trip, but I think he's become an addict.

Here is one of our pics from a kayak...what you can't see is our sweaty, tired, sunburnt bodies, but we did get a nice pic if a local junket.
so, on the island we kayaked to, there were a couple monkeys, all of whom were used to alittle human interaction. I was able to get close to one who was digging in the trash and got two nice shots, this is the first one...


And here is the other...Cliff congratulated me on this picture...
And the obligatory wish-you-were-here shot:
After we parked our kayak, we soon discovered that it had been taken over by a large, well-trained brigade of monkeys...one even jumped on me and reached into my purse. The on below just wanted to take stuff off of our kayak.


All in all, thailand was awesome...we can't wait to go back and spend a couple months... :)