Sunday, November 30, 2008

Backwards post

Ok, so I'm still processing the photos from our thanksgiving celebration (which turned our great, by the way), so those will be online soon. My reason for a quick post is that tonight, Cliff and I attended a North Korean Film festival. Unsurprisingly, it was short yet interesting. We watch two movies: The Game of Our Lives and The Schoolgirls Diary. The first movie was released in 2002 is about the famed 1966 World Cup team from the North that advanced to the quarterfinals. The feature includes interviews with surviving members of the team, English fans and soccer pundits who saw the North Koreans upset Italy, 1-0, and go up 3-0 against Portgual before Eusebio eventually rallied the Portugeuse. The movie was quite good and gave some great non-soccer insights into North Korea.

There are only 8 surviving members of that storied team...
The second movie is really the reason we all showed up...The Schoolgirls Diary is one of only two films produced in 2006 in North Korea...It debuted at the 2006 Pyongyang Film Festival (which I'm sure was an industry standard bearer) and has been released in at the end of last year. It is the first film from North Korea to be picked up for international distribution in several decades. If you want to see a preview, click on the link below:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDMr-y1w7sQ

The film was alittle 'white bread' and nothing really exciting, but given the cultural notes, I'd recommend it. It the most obvious commentary is based on what is not said in the film. The main character lives in a run down, chimney heated house that has faulty electric wiring. She lives with a mother (who spends every free hour devoted to translating articles for her absentee husband), a dedicated and kind grandmother, a soccer-star sister. All the ladies lives center around missing the husband/father, who has gone off to some scientific job and carries the hopes and pride of the entire family with him. He seems perpetually average at his job and therefore has left his family's desire for betterment and esteem, unfulfilled. But, the family's sacrifices are for the good of the great leader and the progress of the country, which is reward enough. A good commentary on the movie can be seen on the following site:

http://www.starpulse.com/news/index.php/2008/01/09/the_schoolgirl_s_diary_provides_a_glimps

Overall, I really enjoyed the night. Its not every evening that I can enjoy some quality communist programming--oh, wait a second...nevermind, that's every night here. Regardless, the films have a pleasant, contrived quality about them that makes it more than just pure entertainment. Its all the subtleties and mindless adoration for the state that makes me want to cry and puke in my mouth all at the same time.

Saturday, November 22, 2008

Watch out world...

Cliff and I count ourselves lucky to be out of the country right now, given the economic downturn. However, it becomes more apparent that we, in China, will have our own problems to deal with. We continue to hear more and more of riots in the western factory towns and how general unrest is rising. Also, as the dollar falls, Chinese goods become relatively more expensive for consumers, which is bad for China's export driven economy. Car sales are down, which according to a local magazine "Business in China", is a result of lower returns on the Chinese stock market. It seems as if double digit economic growth will be a thing of the past. It will be interesting to see how the government is going to handle keeping the society in (harmonious) balance. Below is a recent article from Newsweek which does a great job summarizing all of the issues facing the government and what the consequences of mishandling this economic crisis could mean for the future of the Communist party. Enjoy!!

Why Beijing Is In A Risky Place

As the factory to the world, China may be the nation most vulnerable to collapsing global demand.

George Wehrfritz
NEWSWEEK
From the magazine issue dated Dec 1, 2008

Workers are losing factory jobs at the fastest rate in decades. Automakers—having failed to anticipate today's sales slump—are lobbying politicians for bailouts. The stock market is a crash heap, home prices are down by 35 percent or more in many cities and toxic assets have begun to weigh heavily on banks. America in 2008? Try China, where the global economic downturn now looks certain to end the country's 30-year growth boom, posing the greatest leadership challenge to Beijing since pro-democracy demonstrations threatened one-party communist rule back in 1989.

That's not the conventional take on China—yet. But with most industrialized countries now in recession and countries the world over hoping against hope that the planet's most buoyant major economy might somehow dampen the global downturn, it's a forecast that increasingly rings true. The reasoning goes something like this: China, despite its deep pool of savings and $2 trillion in foreign reserves, is unprotected from the fall in global demand that began in earnest in mid-2008. Notwithstanding all the hoopla about the rise of China's billion consumers, the body blow that's now landing in the industrial heartland will debunk the notion that China has already begun transitioning toward a new growth model based less on exports and investment and more on household consumption. "We would love to believe it too, but it just ain't so," wrote Standard Chartered bank's highly respected China economist, Stephen Green, last month. He says expecting Chinese spending to save the world from recession is "a pipe dream."

With China at the vanguard, Asia as a whole stands dangerously exposed to external shock. Since the late 1990s, household consumption as a share of China's GDP has fallen from roughly half to 35 percent. On the flip side, the share of Asia ex-Japan's output devoted to exports is now more than 45 percent, or roughly 10 points higher than it was on the eve of the 1997–98 Asian financial crisis. When juxtaposed with America's debt-driven gluttony, Asia's puny appetite for the goods it produces reflects a global economy that's staggeringly out of whack. "We are where we are because of massive imbalances that policymakers and politicians have allowed to build up over the last decade," argues Stephen Roach, chairman of Morgan Stanley Asia. "Those imbalances were never sustainable, but the longer they went on the more they seduced people. And now we're paying the ultimate price for that seduction."

The tab, in fact, has yet to be tallied, but don't be surprised if Beijing gets stuck with the biggest portion of the bill for the simple reason that China's rebalancing act is actually much tougher than America's. For U.S. households, today's crisis means saving more and consuming less (recent consumption data suggests that is happening quite rapidly). Yet in China, where total household consumption is just 5 percent of America's by value, the challenge is to sustain an economy that's largely investment- and export-driven, which means finding ways to perpetuate industrial overproduction. Michael Pettis, a professor of finance at Peking University, says America found itself in the same bind back in 1929. "The U.S. in the 1920s ran a huge trade surplus and had the largest reserves in history to that point," he says. "So was the U.S. immune to the global crisis? No. It was the country that suffered the most. In that sense it is exactly like China today."

Beijing realizes the growth trap it's in. Why else would it unveil on Nov. 10 a $590 billion stimulus plan—a package nearly as large as Washington's $700 billion financial bailout—just days after it announced that China's economy expanded by 9 percent in the July–September quarter? The consensus view is that China's economy has slowed markedly since then. Year-on-year growth estimates for 2009 are mostly in the 7s, with the latest forecasts adding the scary caveat, "or less." This month the Royal Bank of Scotland said 5 percent growth in China next year couldn't be ruled out. China's economy, which grew by 11.9 percent last year, hasn't dipped below 6 percent annually since 1990.

Beijing's stimulus plan has won plaudits internationally not least because it indicates that Chinese leaders won't stand idly by as the crisis deepens. But just as in Washington at the beginning of the Great Depression, policy miscues could cost China dearly—especially if they undermine the global trading regime that China's economy relies on more heavily than any other major economy in the world. In the early 1930s, America's self-defeating mistake was to cut off world trade, particularly in the Smoot-Hawley Tariff Act, at a time when it was the leading exporter in a world burdened by massive industrial overproduction. Today, China is the lead exporter, the world again faces massive overproduction, and the mistake Beijing must avoid is moving too hard to sell more manufactured exports at the risk of flooding an already weak market, and triggering a protectionist backlash. That will only push the global market toward deflation—the downward spiral of falling prices leading to falling demand, as stressed consumers wait for even better bargains.

The doubts about China's stimulus plan arise in part because it's all broad strokes with no fine print. Conceptually, however, it seems intended to split the difference between promoting consumption at home, and export sales. It includes commitments to fund rural infrastructure, boost social spending on health and education, and mount an "economic housing" scheme for migrant workers in major cities—all of which, if implemented, would raise household spending over time. But it also contains perks for heavy industry, value-added tax cuts for the export sector and lending provisions that will channel bank funding to state enterprises engaged in road and rail construction and away from private companies. "The two focuses are definitely exports and infrastructure. That's what we're getting from everything we're picking up," says Green. "And that the health and education spending, although it has been listed as one of the eight priorities, is not going to be [well] supported." Economists estimate that only a quarter of the $590 billion is new money as opposed to previously announced spending, future tax cuts and unfunded mandates passed down to local governments. There's reason to expect that much of the promised social spending—and the consumer empowerment it represents—may not materialize. One warning signal is that Beijing has entrusted much of the safety net stuff to the provinces, which historically have put a low priority on building schools, unless the order to do so comes with earmarked funding from Beijing. One new concern: local tax revenues are shrinking due to the economic downturn. Roach says investment in the social safety net would "reduce the precautionary saving that is inhibiting broad-based consumption growth across the nations [of Asia]," though he adds: "China has from time to time flirted with that, but they really have dragged their feet."

To understand the linkage between social services and household consumption, visit a Chinese hospital. At check-in, patients are required to deposit money up-front, and when that funding runs dry they're tossed out onto the street, healthy or not. According to the World Health Organization, China spends less than 1 percent of its GDP on health care, which ranks it 156th out of 196 nations the U.N. agency tracks. Likewise, poor kids can't attend school without paying fees, and most migrants are uninsured against job-site accidents at any price. Families cope by saving an estimated 25 percent of their disposable income, just in case.

That isn't a social contract conducive to the "harmonious society" President Hu Jintao has advocated since 2006, or so concludes a new report co-produced by the United Nations Development Program and the China Institute for Reform and Development. It calls on China to overhaul its social-welfare system to provide universal basic health care, education, unemployment and retirement benefits for the country's 1.3 billion people. It stresses the need to vest forgotten segments of society including farmers, migrant workers and the poor. And it claims that such expenditures—which it estimates would cost $55 billion a year—actually offer a bigger bang for the buck than would the construction of new roads, railways and bridges.

The risk today (and it's one that's already materializing in a mounting exodus from shuttered factories in Guangdong province) is that these workers could, like the boxcar-hopping hobos of America's Depression era, become the flotsam and jetsam of the economic bust. Almost since China's reforms began three decades ago, Beijing insisted that sustaining economic growth rates above 8 percent was paramount to employing the millions of workers pouring in from inland villages. The further growth drops below that level, the higher the percentage of an estimated 15 million workers entering the labor force each year lands in the ranks of the unemployed. Yet even as policymakers stoked fast growth with every means at their disposal, little was done to transform these workers into foot soldiers of a different sort: new consumers with sufficient social protections to save less and spend more.

The prescription for change has been obvious since the late 1990s. It includes balanced growth between booming east and lagging west; efforts to narrow the yawning income gap between China's superrich and everyone else; and policies that channel the massive earnings logged by the state-owned conglomerates that dominate China Inc. back into government coffers to fund social spending. Yet campaigns with names like Go West meant to spur investment in the hinterland never amounted to more than propaganda exercises, and a long-mulled plan for the government to charge state companies dividend on their huge profits remains a small-scale experiment. In October, Standard Chartered noted a "gulf between aspirations and actual policies" illustrated by Beijing's long-standing bias toward investment and exports, and support for "state-protected oligopolies." Pettis argues that Beijing's persistent mercantilism has prepared it for the wrong crisis—specifically, an external debt shock akin to the one that ravaged Asia in 1997-98, against which China's huge savings and foreign reserve pools would make it "superbly protected." Yet as with America in 1929, China is the nation most exposed in the world to a collapse in global demand today.

As such, Beijing finds itself in a fix as 2008 winds to an ignominious close. Export promotion offers a viable short-term means of keeping the factories of China running—yet grabbing more market share amid a global downturn is the surest way to incite protectionism. During the recent gathering of G20 leaders in Washington, much public emphasis was placed on shoring up the global financial architecture and defending free trade. Yet former New Zealand prime minister Mike Moore, who headed the World Trade Organization from 1999 to 2002, believes the backroom talks focused on the imperative that Asia not try to export its way out of today's crisis. It was "the elephant in the room; how China, and to a lesser extent India and the Southeast Asians, must become consuming countries," he says. "It's overwhelmingly in [their] interest to become a lot less reliant on exports, and it also does right by the people they represent. Not to do it could trigger something that's very, very unpleasant." Global trade slumped 70 percent in the 1930s, and any return to the virulent economic nationalism of that era "would turn crisis into catastrophe," warns Moore.

That presents Beijing with a leadership challenge very different from the one it confronted with tanks and soldiers in 1989. Today, it must work to maintain enough harmony in the global trade arena so as not to lose access to vital overseas markets, while telling the Chinese people that fast growth isn't their birthright. In essence, Beijing must offer a new social contract in which consumption bolstered with a social safety net replaces the export-driven growth engine that has powered China's economy for 30 years. FDR did that in America in the 1930s, but it took a decade. Might China's leaders fare any better? In the late 1990s, then Premier Zhu Rongji refrained from devaluing China's currency when many of its neighbors did so; the decision lost China some export momentum but gained its leadership a reputation for responsible global action. Today's leaders have maintained that reputation, but given the enormity of the economic challenges at hand, the only safe bet is that their helmsmanship will be tested to the extreme in 2009. Especially if the pessimists are correct and China's economy grinds to a halt.

Friday, November 14, 2008

Beijing nights

Cliff and I have been busy lately...We've taken an Economics test and moved on to Business Law and ethics and Financial Accounting. I am not really looking forward to the test on the latter. The ethic class is very interesting, especially since the melamine issue is still a very hot topic here. From my previous post, you can see that I am also concerned about food safety, but we can't guarantee the safety of everything we eat, and if someone is willing to poisons babies to make an extra buck, why wouldn't some they lie and say that something was imported when it really wasn't. I hope that our two plus years here aren't too damaging to us...thank good we don't have kids.

We also have been doing a decent amount of playing. I am starting to get more educated about the city and as our circle of friends grows, so does out local connections. For instance, we were invited out to the birthday party of the manager of one of the hottest restaurants in town. They shut down the place for the night and served cocktails all night. We ate passed appetizers and drank alot of time. Below is a picture of our company for the night...one venezuelan, one taiwanese and a spaniard. I can say that our crowd is becoming increasingly international.

Maggie and Elena have become frequent companions on the weekends and I have really enjoyed getting to know them. Here is us at Mosto, the restaurant hosting the birthday party. Its alittle expensive, so I don't get there as much as I'd like, but the whole evening was quite good.


There was a DJ spinning great tunes, white and red wine and great finger foods. I circulated like a rock star and got to meet great people. We danced until the wee hours and has a great time. As you can see from below, some of us enjoyed ourselves more than others (rest assured, I took advantage of the situation too--things haven't changed that much!)We've also been hitting the clubs lately with a group of friends. We have a solid group of girls in our group, so its been fun getting out with them. The wife of my class mate and maggie are great company, we they would prefer to speak chinese, and I'm more than happy to oblige, especially earlier in the evening. Below is the happiest man in Beijing.


ahhh...YMCA is happiness in any language...

and below is the obligatory cab ride home....sometimes not having a car is OK.
Cliff attended a class dinner last week and had the unique privilege of learning the zither from one of the most talented musicians in the country. One of our classmates owns a local restaurant, which is very traditional and it regularly hosts traditional musicians. Cliff was chosen to get up on stage and learn a couple of notes.

cliff has also been making friends with our classmates and hitting the night life with them. Below is our friend, Oscar, with everybody's friend Po, of Kungfu panda fame. I'm not sure which bar this panda was hanging out in, but he looks friendly emough.
We've also gotten a chance to check out the music scene here...Kanye West came on the 1st of Nov to the Workers Gymnasium, which is less than 6 blocks from our house.


This concert was by far the most bizarre event I had ever been too. As you can see above, the floor seats were rows of chair and were so, so far away from the stage. There didn't seem to be any connection between kanye and the audience. Also, all of the speakers were canted straight back, so unless you were sitting center stage, the sound quality was very poor. I was even able to have a conversation during the concert. the opening act (which was all of 10 minutes) was a Taiwanese rap group that repeatedly said "I'm so cool" for their first song did some hip hop dancing for the rest of the show. It was clearly an imitation of American music, and not a great one at that. The people around us loved them, but we were all alittle appalled.

When Kanye came on, no one in the stadium stood up or danced. Everybody stayed in their seats. Hardly any of the chinese looked excited...none of them put their hands up, very few clapped their hands or bobbed their heads or anything. It was like they all knew this would be a hot concert and that they should buy tickets, so they did, but didn't know any of the songs, or really the artist. The worst were the people on the floor...most stayed in their chairs, in they're business suits with their legs crossed, listening to the music. The few people that tried to get up and dance were put back in their seats by security. Finally, about an hour into the concert, Kanye started playing some of his more popular and up beat radio hits and people slowly started to dance. Interestingly enough, as soon as the show was 'over' (before the encore), the crowd clapped and became silent, like they didn't understand how to cheer for an encore. It was like someone had just flipped a switch.
Overall, the show was run poorly...that combined with the bizarre/under-musically-educated audience made for a night to remember...although I can't decide for good or for bad.

I know we've finally forged some friendships, as we were invited over to our Chinese classmate's house for dinner...His (Taiwanese) wife, stacy, cooked a great dinner...pasta, swedish meatballs with mashed potatoes and gravy and tiramisu....mmmmmm. Joining us was some other Chinese, Taiwanese, Korean, Thai and German friends.

Their daughter, Alyssa, became very attached to cliff...he read to her and helped he put stickers on some of her books. John and Stacy said that she really likes men, so Cliff was happy enough.
Never fear, this isn't driving us to have kids...we just like other peoples children. After a great dinner and a great time with friends, we happier returned their kids and cabbed it home. We really are having a great time in Beijing, making new friends and discovering the city....that's all for now!

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

Melamine

Well kids, I can now say that I'm adequately freaked out by the melamine scandal. Cliff and I have been drinking milk from China off and on since we got here. When it was uncovered that the tainted milk was discovered before the Olympics, it makes me realize that we've probably injested enough melamine to poop a tupperware container. ugh. Now, the scare has spread to eggs, which in turn, begs the question of the general safety of the meat here. I read an article about how melamine is the dirty little secret of the Chinese agricultural industry. We don't really have a choice here, but I would highly encourage all of your to stay away from Chinese food products of all kinds. I also talked to one of our fellow Olmsted Scholars who told me that his three year old son has dropped from the 50th percentile in size for his age group to the 5th percentile. They changed over to imported milk and homemade bread from imported flour over a month ago. In case you wanted to freak yourself out, here is a couple of articles to read up on...

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2008/11/03/AR2008110303486.html?hpid=topnews

Chinese Regulators Destroy Tons of Tainted Animal Feed
China’s Tainted-Food Inquiry Widens Amid Worries Over Animal Feed
More Lawsuits Filed Over Tainted Milk in China

Monday, November 3, 2008

halloween

Cliff and I hosted a Halloween party at our place for all of our classmates this weekend and it turned out great. It was everything a party should be...loud music, lots of drinking, cops came, neighbors complained, we went our afterwards and stumbled home. It was glorious. Actually, the party planning was alittle arduous...we learned alot about Chinese culture in a very short time. First, many of our classmates were very hesitant to come to our place. You see, when you socialize in China, you share a meal. If you are making new friends, you could spent nearly a quarter of your day eating off of a lazy susan. Of course, the very American way to make friends is to have them over for drinks and go out afterwards. Then, there was also the problem that many of our classmates were fearful of the type of place that two MBA students could possibly rent in Beijing. Needless to say, Cliff and I exceeded their expectations in that department. Lastly, since a vast majority of our classmates have never been to a Halloween party, getting them to dress up and have a drink was also a stretch. We are pleased to say that it was a success. Click on the following link to see an all-American holiday at its best!!!

http://picasaweb.google.com/cliffordtorrijos